Some things don’t change much with age.
I remember once when I was a child, and my parents had just bought me a new Transformer, there was a brochure that showed all the other models that then existed in the world of Transformers. It was a pretty paltry list. There were maybe a dozen different characters. 3 of them were, in fact, the exact same toy but in different colors: Starscream and his two other F-15 fighter jet buddies.
My father saw that I was all excited, and he asked me, “You want all 3 of them, don’t you?” “Yes!” “But they’re all the same thing.” “No, they’re not. They’re different!”
I never did end up getting any of them.
It’s a little different now with my cooking toys. I decide now which new gadgets and knives I get. Yet, a similar dynamic still exists, whether it’s between myself and most people I talk to about my interest in cooking knives, or even with myself as I debate each time over my latest intended purchase.
I now have 15 different knives in my kitchen, not including little oddballs like the oyster knife or the cheese knives. Plus another 2 exclusively for use at the office, but that’s getting off-topic. 4 of these knives are the same fundamental design: they’re chef knives. Or, in the Japanese knife world, they’re gyutos.
I already have a Henckels 210mm (8″) chef knife. This was the baby I started learning to cook with. It’s no longer my star performer, but it’s still so comfortable in my hand because I’m used to it. Sometimes I need something shorter or sturdier and this is the knife I reach for.
I have a Henckels 240mm (closer to 250mm, 9.5″) chef knife. I rescued this bad boy. It had been abused in a former home, but I knew the steel was good. It took some effort, and repeated sharpening sessions, but I eventually got the edge nice and sharp. It’s my go-to knife for taking apart items like melons or large cabbages. With its rescued edge, it’s actually pretty good at fine work like making the cabbage into a chiffonade, too!
I have a 240mm Tanaka gyuto with VG-10 stainless steel core, wa-handled. This is currently my main go-to gyuto. At first the length felt a little unwieldy, but I stuck with it because I loved the edge on the thing. It’s got a keener edge than either of my Henckels, and it really is a much tighter, much more finely tuned kitchen cutting machine.
I have a 300mm (12″) Fujitake gyuto in solid VG-10 stainless steel, western-handled. I’ve only used this bad boy a handful of times because I’m not quite used to it yet. It feels very large, even though it’s actually my lightest gyuto. But it is wonderful when I need to make clean slices in a yanagiba (“sushi knife”) fashion but also have other prep work to do. The extra length is also a godsend when I have to plow through and mince a huge pile of herbs or leafy vegetables.
Each knife has its purpose. Each knife has its strengths and weaknesses.
Yet, there is something missing in the stable. I don’t mean having one from every make – I don’t think I want to spend the money doing that. What I mean is, there’s still an entire category missing from my gyutos. Two, actually: 270mm, carbon steel. There is a size and a material missing. I have carbon steel traditional Japanese blades, but not for any of my gyutos. Why carbon steel, which can rust, which develops patina, and which needs more care and attention than stainless steel? Because it gets sharper and cuts even more cleanly.
So, like the 3 F-15 fighter jet Transformers, I find myself needing to get another toy to complete the collection. I have made a deal to buy a second-hand Takeda 270mm gyuto with aogami super (“blue super”) steel core. It is in a length that I do not have, and uses what every knife knut acknowledges to be an excellent carbon steel. This thing should be an absolute cutting monster. Only when I get my hands on it, take it to the sharpening stones, and then use it to prep a meal will I know for sure, but that is the promise and the hope.
Some things don’t change much with age. I still want to complete my collections. But something is different now. The gyutos aren’t exactly the same as one another but in different colors. They are different lengths and they have different steels, thus they have different cutting properties. Do I need to have so many gyutos? No. I can prep a meal with my original baby, the 210mm Henckels. But I have more fun, and arguably my food is higher quality when I use the right knife for the right job, at the right time.
Don’t believe me? I can tell you my beloved Fuji apples – I’ve been slicing up and eating about 4 of them every day for the past month while they’ve been in season – have better texture and are more enjoyable when I cut them with a good knife, and the right knife. I also enjoy the experience of preparing my apples nicely.
It’s no longer about the exact same thing in different colors. It’s about slightly different things for slightly different uses. Kind of like getting different sports cars for different purposes: a Ferrari for on-track racing, a BMW M-Series for road driving, and a rally-modded Subaru Impreza for off-road racing. Does anyone need to have 3 sports cars? No. But it sure as hell is a lot more enjoyable to have them all, and you’ll do better in each environment when you have them all and can choose the right one to suit your mood or your activity.
Gyuto sizes: I just gotta have ‘em all! 210mm, 240mm, 300mm… and I’ll soon have a 270mm!